Atelier · France
Key Takeaways
- A custom wedding dress at Lutien Bridal starts at $1,490: a simple silhouette in artificial silk, made to your exact measurements.
- Price is driven by three factors: construction complexity, embroidery coverage, and fabric choice.
- Full hand embroidery to the hem starts at $3,890. Embroidery with a train: $5,000 and up.
- Natural silk is available from $2,690, a premium option that takes longer and costs more for a good reason.
- We work from our own sketches and your vision. We don't copy other brands' designs.
The most common question before a bride places an order: What is this going to cost?
Here is the honest answer, with actual numbers and what they include.
Price Overview
| Dress Category | Starting Price |
|---|---|
| Simple silhouette, artificial silk | $1,490 |
| Complex construction: corset, train, 3D elements | $1,890 |
| Hand embroidery to waist | $2,290 |
| Natural silk, simple silhouette | $2,690 |
| Hand embroidery to mid-thigh | $2,690 |
| Hand embroidery to knee | $2,890 |
| Full hand embroidery to hem | $3,890 |
| Hand embroidery + train | $5,000+ |
These are starting prices for each tier. Unusual construction, dense embroidery, and rare fabrics are all quoted individually after the design consultation.
What $1,490 Gets You
At the entry price, you get a dress made entirely to your measurements, from a pattern drafted to your specific body, not a standard size pinned and tucked to fit. The fabric is high-quality artificial silk: viscose-satin blends that drape cleanly and hold structure.
This tier covers clean silhouettes. Slip dresses, simple A-lines, minimalist column gowns, unstructured ballgowns without boning. No corset construction, no built-in train, no hand embroidery.
We produce a sketch for every dress before a single stitch is sewn. You share references and describe what you're imagining. We sketch it and send it back for your approval. Nothing moves forward until that sketch is confirmed, on both sides.
If your design is a clean silhouette without structural complexity, $1,490 is your starting price. The level of care that goes into it is the same as every other dress we make.
What Drives the Price Up
Three things increase the cost: construction complexity, embroidery coverage, and fabric choice. If you're still deciding on a silhouette before thinking about budget, see our wedding dress silhouettes guide or our comparison of simple vs. embellished wedding dresses for how these choices interact.
Construction Complexity
A dress with a boned corset, a sweep or cathedral train, layered skirts with internal structure, or any 3D decorative elements starts at $1,890. These features require additional hours, materials, and fitting stages to execute correctly. See corset construction in custom bridal for what that structural work actually involves.
The line between simple and complex is straightforward: if the dress requires internal structure to hold its shape, it's the complex tier.
Embroidery: the Main Cost Driver
Hand embroidery is the most significant cost variable in a custom wedding dress. At our atelier, all embroidery is done by hand: individual beads, crystals, threads, and lace pieces placed one at a time. Price is set by how far down the skirt the embroidery reaches.
| Embroidery Coverage | Starting Price |
|---|---|
| To waist (incl. sleeves, back, front; lace max 4-5 cm onto hips) | $2,290 |
| To mid-thigh | $2,690 |
| To knee | $2,890 |
| Full to hem | $3,890 |
| Full to hem + train | $5,000+ |
Why does coverage add so much? A skirt is radial. From the waist to the hem, the circumference of the fabric expands with every tier. Full-hem embroidery requires three to four times the material and time of a waist-only application. That's what you're paying for.
Lace appliqué counts as hand work too. Individual lace motifs are cut from lace fabric and positioned across the gown by hand, this isn't machine-applied trim.
Fabric Choice
Our standard is high-quality artificial silk: viscose, satin blends, and similar materials that drape well and are what most brides choose. They look beautiful and they're the right choice for most designs. For a full comparison of options, see our guide to the best wedding dress fabrics for a custom gown.
Natural silk is a different category. We work with organza, chiffon, jacquard, charmeuse, satin, and many other natural silk fabrics, a wide selection. A natural silk dress starts at $2,690 for a simple silhouette.
Natural silk costs more and takes longer because it can't be unpicked without leaving marks. Every cut and seam must be right the first time. We build a toile, a test version in cheaper fabric, before we touch the silk, which adds both time and cost. If you want natural silk, we can absolutely do it. Just know what you're signing up for.
How Our Hand Embroidery Works
Every piece of embroidery on a Lutien Bridal dress is placed by hand. Individual beads threaded and secured one by one. Crystals set into mesh. Lace motifs cut from raw lace fabric and sewn into position across a bodice or skirt. There's no batch production, no machine assist.
Embroidery is applied after the dress is constructed, on the finished gown. This is why it can't be added or changed once production has started. Design decisions about embroidery coverage are final before the pattern is cut.
The coverage tiers map to real differences in finishing time. Waist-level embroidery adds about a week within our finishing stage. Full-hem embroidery uses the full finishing window. Each step in the pricing ladder represents additional weeks of skilled work, not just more materials. For a full breakdown of the techniques behind this work, see hand embroidery on a wedding dress.
3D Elements, Feathers, and Special Details
We also make dresses with three-dimensional decorative work: fabric flowers, feathers, rhinestones, structural dimensional appliqué. These fall under complex construction pricing at minimum, with additional cost based on what you want and how much of the dress it covers.
3D elements are quoted individually. Tell us what you're imagining and we'll give you a specific number. There's no blanket surcharge, it depends on the type, density, and coverage.
What We Don't Make
We design from our own sketches, adapted to what each bride wants. Every dress starts with a design conversation: your references, your ideas, your measurements, and our sketches back to you for approval. That's the process.
What we don't do is make exact copies of other brands' designs. If you've seen a specific gown somewhere and want it reproduced stitch-for-stitch, that's not something we offer. We don't work that way.
What we do accept as references: dress photos, Pinterest collections, AI-generated concepts, rough sketches, a written description. We use them to understand what you're drawn to, then we build something that's yours, not a reproduction of someone else's work.
If you want a dress that takes elements you love and interprets them as an original design, that's exactly what we do.
Custom vs. Off-the-Rack: The Honest Difference
A mid-range off-the-rack bridal gown in the US runs $990-$1,290. Custom at Lutien Bridal starts at $1,490.
That $200-$500 difference at the entry tier buys a dress made to your body from scratch, not altered toward a standard size. It also buys a design chosen for you, not pulled from a rack that five other brides in your city might already have ordered. For sizes that boutiques struggle to fit at all, see plus-size custom wedding dress: why custom solves what off-the-rack can't.
At the embellished tier, the comparison changes significantly. A heavily beaded off-the-rack gown at $3,000-$5,000 was almost certainly produced with machine embroidery at scale. Our dresses at that price point carry hand-placed beadwork, done by hand, after the gown is assembled, on a dress made for one specific person.
That's the difference. Not the price alone, the work behind it.
Tell Us What You're Imagining
The fastest way to get an accurate quote is to write to us. A rough description, a few reference images, or a full detailed brief, whatever you have. We'll tell you what it would cost and how long it would take.
Want to understand the ordering process before you reach out? See The Complete Guide to Ordering a Custom Wedding Dress Online.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a custom wedding dress take?
Production at Lutien Bridal takes 10 to 12 weeks from order confirmation, plus 3 to 5 days for UPS delivery to the US. Simple silhouettes fall at the 10-week end. Dresses with full-bodice hand embroidery fall at 12 weeks. We recommend reaching out 6 months before your wedding date, and we don't take rush orders.
Full production timeline guide →
Can I have embroidery at the lower price points?
The hand embroidery tiers start at $2,290 (coverage to waist). Below that, the dress can include lace trim as a design element, flat-applied border lace or bodice lace, which is different from coverage-based hand embroidery. Tell us what you're picturing and we'll tell you exactly what tier it falls into.
Do you work with AI-generated dress images?
Yes. AI-generated concepts are useful starting points for a design conversation. Bring us whatever reference you have: AI renders, photos, mood boards, sketches on paper. We use them to understand what you want, not as blueprints to reproduce exactly.
What about unusual requests, feathers, dramatic 3D work, unconventional construction?
Write to us. We handle complex and unusual projects regularly: structural 3D elements, feathers, unconventional silhouettes, custom embroidery designs. Price and timeline are quoted individually based on what you need. If you're ready to pay the real cost of your dream dress, we'll make it happen.
Why don't you copy dresses from other brands?
We build original work. Every dress at our atelier starts with our own design process: your wishes, our sketches, your approval. Copying another designer's work isn't part of that process. What we can do is take the qualities you love about a dress you've seen and interpret them into something that's genuinely yours.
Related guides:
- The Complete Guide to Ordering a Custom Wedding Dress Online
- Custom Wedding Dress Timeline: How Long Does It Actually Take?
- How to Measure Yourself for a Wedding Dress at Home
About the author: Alena Amros is the lead designer at Lutien Bridal Atelier in Ansignan, France, where she has designed and produced over 1,000 custom wedding gowns for brides across the US and Europe.
